References

Layton AM, Thiboutot D, Tan J. Reviewing the global burden of acne: how could we improve care to reduce the burden?. Br J Dermatol. 2020; https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.19477

Cordaro A, Dobbs TD, Gibson JA, Whitaker S, Whitaker IS. Skin cancer screening in organ transplant centres in the United Kingdom: a national survey. Eur J Dermatol. 2020; 30:(4)372-376 https://doi.org/10.1684/ejd.2020.3845

Leshem YA, Wong A, McClanahan D, Simpson EL. The effects of common over-the-counter moisturisers on skin barrier function: a randomised, observer-blind, within-patient, controlled study. 2020; 31:(5)309-315 https://doi.org/10.1097/der.0000000000000623

Draelos ZD, Diaz I, Cohen A, Mao J, Boyd T. A novel skin brightening topical technology. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020; https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13741

Couteau C, Dupont C, Paparis E, Coiffard LJM. Demonstration of the dangerous nature of ‘homemade’ sunscreen recipes. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020; https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13783

RESEARCH ROUNDUP

02 November 2020
Volume 9 · Issue 9

Abstract

In this regular feature, aesthetic nurse Claudia McGloin presents a brief synopsis of a range of recently published articles on medical aesthetics. Research roundup aims to provide an overview, rather than a detailed summary and critique, of the papers selected. Should you wish to look at any of the papers in more detail, a full reference is provided at the end of each study summary

One study noted that the effects of moisturisers on nonlesional atopic dermatitis skin was small and needed to be addressed in future studies

Reviewing the global burden of acne: how could we improve care to reduce the burden?

Acne vulgaris, more commonly referred to as just acne, is one of the most common inflammatory skin conditions treated globally. Recent studies suggest that acne prevalence may be increasing in both adolescents and adults, in particular, female adults. The notion of the ‘burden of skin disease’ is multidimensional and can be difficult to measure due to very different international healthcare systems.

The issues with acne may vary according to patient demographics, access to treatments and the extent of the condition. As the nature of this disease is visible, acne symptoms can contribute both physically and psychosocially to the overall impact of the disease, as well as the costs associated with treatment. Generally, acne will present during adolescence, which can have a huge effect on a teenager's daily life, as well as negatively affecting their relationships, social skills and mental health.

The authors note that the continued use of antibiotics for treating acne can also add another burden in the form of antimicrobial resistance.

The authors concluded that the absence of standardised assessments could be a huge issue in any acne studies and challenges the ability to compare treatments and carry out meta-analyses.

Skin cancer screening in organ transplant centres in the United Kingdom: a national survey

Recipients of organ transplants have an increased risk of keratinocyte skin cancer (KSC), and international guidelines recommend skin cancer screening at least once a year for transplant recipients.

The aim of this study was to explore the current skin cancer surveillance practice in UK transplant centres, as well as the challenges to surveillance.

To carry out this study, the authors sent an online survey to all of the 59 transplant centres in the UK, which specialised in kidney, pancreas, heart and/or lung, liver and intestine transplants. Of these, 51 responded.

The results showed that 28 of the centres looked for skin cancer post-transplantation. Within 18 of these centres, there was a non-skin cancer specialist providing the screening. Furthermore, 21 of the units carried out full skin examinations and eight of the units screened at least bi-annually in the first 5 years post-transplantation.

The authors noted that 23 of the centres did not provide any skin cancer surveillance due to having to depend on patient-reported lesions, lack of training, lack of funding, not a requirement in all patients and clinic time restraints.

In conclusion, many UK transplant units do not run skin surveillance. The authors suggest that collaboration between skin cancer and transplant specialists would improve surveillance rates and decrease morbidity and mortality.

The effects of common over-the-counter moisturisers on skin barrier function

Atopic dermatitis may be improved by using moisturisers that can restore the skin barrier, although some products may have detrimental effects.

The aim of this study was to investigate how several over-the-counter moisturisers affected the skin's barrier function.

The authors of this study conducted a randomised, forearm-controlled, observer-blind study. The participants used in the study, who were over the age of 12, had clear skin to moderate atopic dermatitis.

The randomised trial consisted of one of four moisturisers (Cetaphil Cream, Aveeno Eczema Therapy Moisturising Cream, CeraVe Moisturising Cream and Vaseline) being applied to the nonlesional skin of one forearm, with no moisturiser applied to the opposite forearm for 4 weeks. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), capacitance and pH were evaluated pre-treatment and after 4 weeks.

A total of 20 patients with atopic dermatitis completed the study. The results showed that baseline measurements between the group of atopic dermatitis and the group of 10 non-atopic dermatitis controls were similar. After the treatment in the group with atopic dermatitis, the mean TEWL improved in the treated forearm and worsened in the untreated one. However, this was not significant, and there was also no significant change in pH or in TEWL after tape stripping, although capacitance significantly improved in the moisturiser forearm.

In conclusion, the authors noted that the effects of moisturisers on nonlesional atopic dermatitis skin was small and needed to be addressed in future studies.

A novel skin brightening topical technology

Effective skin brightening is still an unmet need in over-the-counter formulations.

This study assessed topical facial formulations containing hexylresorcinol, silymarin, 20% vitamin C and 5% vitamin E in a proprietary anhydrous vehicle in skin explants for UVB photoprotective effects and clinical benefits.

To assess the test product and vehicle, an in vitro investigation looked at 12 skin explants. Six of these skin explants received 10 μL of the study product and the remaining six received the 10 μL of the vehicle product.

Half of these skin samples were then exposed to 250 mJ/cm2 of UVB radiation after 96 hours, while the other half was left unexposed.

A total of 42 female participants with normal or dry skin, aged 35–55 years and with skin types I–VI with discoloration, uneven skin tone and fine lines took part. The dermatologist conducting the study evaluated skin brightening, evenness, fine lines and wrinkles.

The results of the study showed that the participants who were treated with the study product experienced no significant change in expression of pro-collagen and pro-inflammatory gene markers following UVB exposure. In contrast, the other participants who were treated with the vehicle experienced significant decreases in pro-collagen expression and significant increases in pro-inflammatory gene marker expression.

The authors noted the most significant improvements after 12 weeks, with improvements in brightening, evenness, lines and facial appearance.

In conclusion, in a proprietary anhydrous vehicle, hexylresorcinol, silymarin, 20% vitamin C and 5% vitamin E are effective in decreasing UVB-induced photo damage, while also improving skin brightness.

Demonstration of the dangerous nature of ‘homemade’ sunscreen recipes

Due to an increasing lack of confidence in several skincare ingredients used by the cosmetic industry, more people are making homemade skincare products. This trend has been seen in all areas of the cosmetic industry but, according to the authors, is particularly prominent in the hygiene sector (with shampoos and toothpaste) and the care sector (with moisturisers and sunscreen products).

The study aimed to analyse various sunscreen recipes from the Internet and to assess their photoprotective effectiveness levels.

For this study, 15 recipes were chosen from the Internet and were made in a laboratory following the exact protocols that were detailed.

Using an in vitro method, the sun protection factor (SPF), the production factor in the UVA domain (PF-UVA) and the critical wavelength (λc) were determined in the 15 recipes.

The authors found that three of the online 15 recipes did not contain any sunscreen, and were deemed as a major risk for users in the case of sun exposure.

The other 12 recipes could not be considered as sun protection products, as all of them had an SPF under six.

In conclusion, the authors stated that these internet recipes are very dangerous, as some have no photoprotective effect, and most do not ensure a sufficient level of photoprotection.